IST next week...

As I talk to different people and think about home, friends, traveling and everything else (I have a lot of time to think here in Malawi), I am realizing how many first I am experiencing. Or, perhaps, failing to experience. Of course this is my first time to Africa, first time in the southern hemisphere. At some point in June I hit my longest period of time outside of the United States of America, eclipsing the trip to Europe that Stephanie and I took sometime around the middle of that month. By now you could say I’ve left that little jaunt in the dust and before too long a three-and-a-half-month vacation through the developed world will be simple child’s play.

Obviously this is the first time I have missed or will miss many happenings at home. My cousin Kristina recently informed that my family gathered for the first Shed Party without me. And it sounded like this was a really good one. I’m missing a great season of baseball – records being broken and the right team is finally having a decent year. For the first time in three years, I didn’t make the Bechtel Lake House Summer Extravaganza, which is always a blast. Christmas this year – oh, man. How I am going to miss cold weather, snow, the decorations, the season. But then I’ll probably be someplace like Zanzibar for Christmas this year. While I’ll certainly miss family and friends, I mean, hey, Illinois or Zanzibar? Illinois or Zanzibar?

On the other hand, I’m in Africa which, yes, I do have to actually remind myself of sometimes. So many people speak English and I see practically no African wildlife (except a few monkeys now and then), and I really don’t feel out of place as the only foreigner among all the locals. And I’m not sure that is something that many Americans can grasp. In fact I’ve heard from others that sometimes a PCV doesn’t realize how different they are until the see a photo of themselves with a large group of villagers. When you are the only white face among dozens of black faces, it can be a bit of an eye-opener.

As I think about home and the developed world, I wonder what exactly it would take to get me to come home. I wouldn’t yet say I’m so enamored with Malawi that I want to stay forever (maybe it’s the impending 120 degree weather coming soon). Sure there are other places I would like to be. But I eat well – a fair amount of rice and beans, but pork once a week and pasta and pancakes about once a week. Yeah, bathing from a bucket and squatting over a hole aren’t glamorous, but I’d rather take a warm bucket bath than a cold shower and, hey, when you gotta go, you gotta go. I’m finally getting into doing some projects, which helps the time pass and keeps me busy. And, while sit it not bad, I live for the times that the group of volunteers gets together. Like now. I love these people. Our groups has really meshed well, and I’m looking forward to traveling and just hanging out for our time here.

WHAT ARE YOU DOING?
So, off the sentimental, psychological babble now, and on to some hands-on, interactive, audience participation! Since I last posted, I have not been south of Karonga boma (find a map). I was ready for a break three weeks ago, but stuck it out. And I actually had a chance to do some stuff at site, too. My house is coming along, though still needs work. I have an almost completed kitchen, which is no big deal because I have a kerosene stove I cook with inside my house. And I have an almost completed chimbuzi, which has been in the construction process for about two-and-a-half months now, and which is only a slightly larger deal because when I gotta go all I have to do is take a little 100-meter stroll across the campus of the primary school and greet people who ask, “Matthews, where are you going?” I point and say, “Apo.” There. They respond, “Ooohh.”

On the west side of my house I now have sweet corn, cucumbers, squash and tomatoes growing, though I’ve had a bit of a problem with the neighbors piglets. I’m excited as this the first time I’ve ever actually planted vegetables in a garden, and as long as they are still growing I’ll be happy when I return to site. And now I have some green bean seeds, which will come in handy, too. Thank Mom and Dad.

About a month a go, my counterpart and I attended a meeting the the TA – Traditional Authority. This guy is kind of a local big shot. Malawi has 28 districts and I think our district is home to four TAs. So he’s not quite the president, but people show him a lot of respect. Anyway, different representatives from the government ministries spoke about project they were doing in the area. I was forced to sit in a large, cushy chair at the same level of the TA, which was a bit uncomfortable when, as a PCV, I want to integrate at the village level. But I suffered through. I also forced myself to join the TA and his cronies, along with my counterpart, for the post-meeting meal. Chicken, beef, pork, rice, cabbage. Free soft drinks and beer. By far the best meal I’ve had at site. And, as with anywhere, it’s good to rub shoulders with the right people from time to time.

Language is coming along quite sluggishly, which is unfortunate, but so many people speak English that at least I don’t sit and stare the entire time I’m with someone else. Chingonde is so much different than Chitumbuka and I am envious of the volunteers who are in pure Chitumbuka-speaking areas – not only that they get to use their language, but that they get to speak a language that Peace Corps actually taught them. Still, I’ve found a couple primary school teachers who are helping me to learn the language. The benefit I gained from the PC training is that at least I have a basic understanding of the structure and grammar of Bantu languages, so if I can see a few words I can pick them apart and decode some of the hidden grammar myself.

YEAH, BUT WHAT ABOUT PROJECTS?
I have just two programs actually in the works, but several more are planned. I hope that after doing some research in Lilongwe I’ll be well prepared to really get rolling. The first project I started was soap-making with some primary school students. The motivation behind this is that many students will not continue their education beyond the free, government-funded primary education that everyone gets. The cheapest secondary school is about mk1,500 per term, three terms a year, for four years. That comes to around mk18,000 for full secondary education. That’s something like $130. And many families can’t afford it. I wondered if there was a way for the students to raise their own money. So, a teacher helped organize a few Standard 6 and 7 students who will begin making soap and selling it at local markets. While we definitely want to raise money, I also hope the kids will learn some basic business concepts.

The second project is a considerably larger undertaking, and I hope a year from now I’m not in over my head. We want to build a library. As with everything, though, this is at least a bit relative. We’re not talking about a million books. Money will be a bit of an issue, but I’m looking into some grants. Books, of course, we’ll need. I pretty sure there are organizations who donate books for projects like this. And I read recently in a magazine about a former PCV who has built library in other African countries. This one will take a boatload of planning and I hope it goes well. I also hope I don’t go insane.

Other things in the works include a beekeeping group, building a dam to hold water in a small stream during the dry season, fixing a broken borehole, and who knows what else. I find myself trying to strike a balance between projects that require just money with projects that actually involve teaching, learning and capacity-building in the community.

CULTURE CULTURE
I mentioned last time that I was having difficulty spotting that African culture that an American might expect upon their first trip here. After the initial culture shock wore off (which mostly revolved around the poverty and mud huts), I started looking for the traditional dress, masks, or strange religious practices. During the past few weeks I’ve been to see some traditional dances with a couple friends. These are difficult to explain if you haven’t seen them, but the event is like a small festival. The locals come and sell vegetables and sometimes grilled meat (usually goat), you can get mandazi (fried dough balls) and a warm Coke or Fanta. And people sit in a large circle while men dance and play drums and blow on things that are like giant kazoos. It’s definitely worth seeing a couple times.

YOU’VE BEEN IN AFRICA TOO LONG or THINGS WE TAKE FOR GRANTED
I’ve mentioned in the past that this experience is helping me appreciate all the privileges we have as Americans, and I think that many Americans may not realize just how lucky they are. Beyond the obvious creature comforts, ease, availability and accessibility of a developed country (electricity, refrigeration, temperature control, quality infrastructure, junk food, television, etc.), I have been trying to keep a list of other things I notice. The ironic aspect of this is that after just five-and-a-half months in Africa, you start to get conditioned to some things.
A really nice house here is one with very few ants or bugs, maybe only a couple mice, glass windows and just a little bit of cracking in the plaster on the walls or cement floors.
School supplies such as textbooks and pens. Not to mention lights in classrooms
“Nice” clothes that don’t have any holes, ripped seams or patches.
Shoes. If you have something beside just flip-flops or open slipper-type shoes, you are doing pretty good.
Again, critters in your house. I’d never want ants in my American home, but as long as they aren’t too bad in the food here, I can live with it. Also, mice, roaches, scorpions, snakes and bats.
Quality public transportation. Quality any transportation.

So all y’all back there in the developed world. Be sure to say your prayers every night. Thank the Lord that you were born and live in the U.S.A. And, while I’m not exactly suffering here, think of me. And try taking a bucket bath once.