Africa Questions

TO ALL READERS: A few days ago in Karonga I picked up an awesome package. Whether it was the awesomest I’ve received is debatable, as there have been some mighty fine parcels. This particular one was from the high school geography class of Mrs. Terri Heinhorst at my alma mater, Midwest Central High School. Not only was the box loaded with tasty goodies (Oreos! Little Debbies! Tuna!), but there were card games and children’s literary materials to share with my Malawian friends. And, to top off the crate, each of the students included a hand-made card with greetings from America and questions about Africa.

I thought my answers to the questions would be of some interest to others, so I’ve sent this response to the entire list. Happy reading!

After reading your questions I came to one general conclusion. I suppose I knew this before, but many Americans have large, general ideas about Africa that are often incorrect. I expect most of this comes from mass media, in particular movies – Blood Diamond, Hotel Rwanda. Remember, Africa is a big continent and what you see in the movies or on the news happens in relatively small areas. Yes, most of the continent suffers from poverty and almost every country is considered to be undeveloped. But that doesn’t mean everyone in every country is shooting and killing. You won’t often hear about places like Malawi because very little newsworthy happens here. It is a small, peaceful country with minimal tourism compared to neighbors like Tanzania, Zambia and Mozambique.

But many Malawians have large, comprehensive misconceptions about America, too. They think you are all rich and white. They ask if there are poor people in America. Well, of course there are, right? But what is poor? How long can a person live on US$100? Can it be stretched to a month? Longer? US$100 is equal to 14,000 Malawi kwacha. That’s two months salary for a primary school teacher. Let’s assume that teacher has a wife and at least three children. But then they will also farm either for food or for additional income. The difficulty with this discussion is that the United States and Malawi have such different economies and the currencies are valued so differently. It’s beyond me to explain it to them, and, I’m sure, to you.

They also don’t understand about food diversity, because to them the “food” is the starch (nsima/ugali, rice, potatoes) and the rest is “relish” (meat, vegetables, etc.). People ask me what is the staple food in America. I can’t answer because we don’t really have a staple food. Most Malawians don’t understand sandwiches, cheeseburgers and pizza. Try explaining your normal diet under those circumstances.

I think I’ve included answers to all your questions here (in no particular order – sorry). Some were incredibly general, but I’ve done my best. Some were similar, so I’ve grouped them together. With all the questions, this will be a bit long, so I miss anything or my answers aren’t clear or raise further questions, please ask more!

Names of local tribes – We don’t have traditional pastoral (livestock herding) tribes like the Massai or Tuareg in Tanzania or Kenya. (Those are the ones you see in National Geographic with the colorful red or purple clothing and all the jewelry.) But there are many different tribes: Chewa, Tumbuka, Ngonde, Yao, Ndali, Lambiya, Sukwa, Ngoni and many more. Each tribe has its own language (Chichewa, Chitumbuka, Chiyao, etc.), though the national language is Chichewa mainly because the Chewa tribe is by far the largest in country. Chitipa District, the northernmost in country, has nearly two dozens tribes who all speak a slightly different language.

Each tribe has a system of traditional government starting at Village Headman, Group Village Headman, Traditional Authority and up to a Paramount Chief. Sometimes more divisions exist depending on the size of the area and tribe. There is a democratic government with police and members of parliament and a president, but if an issue arises and can be settled through the traditional system, as long as everyone is satisfied, it’s OK. I live among the Ngonde people, so nguyoba (I speak) Chingonde panandi (a little).
Also, ndikulankula Chichewa pang’ono.
Also, nkuyowoya Chitumbuka pachoko.
And, ninataka kujua Kiswahili.
(Bonus points for those translations.)

Wildlife – Where I am I don’t see large African wildlife. Malawi is one of the most densely populated countries in Africa and most of the animals are now confined to the national parks. Lions are very rare. As far as I know you won’t find giraffes or rhinoceroses. But Malawi has plenty of elephants, hippos, water buffalo, kudu, eland, zebras.

We do have snakes. The two they warn us about in training are black mambas and puff adders – both extremely poisonous. I have found snakes I my house. Black ones. But I’m not expert and don’t know for sure whether they are mambas. Still I get them out of my house in a hurry. Every time I travel from Karonga to Mzuzu I see baboons along side the road where they congregate waiting for travelers to throw food out their windows. Also, I can walk about 500 meters from my house to a small area of maybe two acres and see wild monkeys. I don’t know what kind they are and even my friend Stephanie, who knows more about African wildlife than anyone I know, couldn’t identify them. But they are fun to watch. After New Year’s I’m planning to travel to Zambia, which is known more for their wildlife. I’m excited.

Music – All African. I hear no American music here. I’m not good at classifying music, but it’s mostly similar to reggae.

Markets – At some point I’ll send a couple photos of my local market. Every Monday I buy tomatoes, onions, beans, bananas and meat at an open-air market. It’s quite similar to a farmer’s market or flea market. Individuals grow the food and sell it. At the same market people can buy dishes, clothes, soap, bicycle parts, clay pots (for cooking or water storage), locally brewed moonshine and so much more.

I can get a warm Coke nearby, but to find electricity and a cold drink I have to travel at least 10 km to the main road. To get real electricity, where I can plug something into the wall, I have to ride my bicycle about 25km to town.

Weather – Look at a map or globe and compare central Illinois to northern Malawi in their relationship to the equator. We are in a tropical climate here. Right now is the hot, dry season. The rainy season is just around the corner and some places in country have been getting rain for a couple weeks now. Generally the pattern goes: warm and rainy from December-April; cool and dry from May through August; hot and dry from September through November. The main growing season for corn is from December through April, during the rains. So, remember our seasons are opposite because we in separate hemispheres, plus our weather patterns vary because the temperature and atmosphere are different closer to the equator.

Friends – Yes, I have many friends. Both Malawian and American. I love my fellow Peace Corps Volunteers. They are great people and I expect to be lifelong friends with many of them. My Malawian friends I hope to stay in touch with, though through time and distance it will become more difficult, I’m sure. Time will tell.

When do I eat dinner – About 6 p.m. each day. When do you eat dinner?
Spicy foods – Only if I add hot sauce or pepper. I’m surprised there weren’t more questions about the food. When at site my diet consists mostly of rice and beans or rice and soya for lunch and dinner. Soya is meat-like product made from soy. It sounds funny, but it’s not too bad. Once a week at the market I’ll buy enough pork or fish for a couple meals. Sometimes I cook sweet potatoes or regular potatoes, though not often. For breakfast I either eat a porridge made from corn flour (it’s kind of like oatmeal or Cream of Wheat) or I eat fruit.

In my area people grow a lot of rice, and many Malawians will prepare that with a meal. Still, the dominant carbohydrate is nsima, which is a staple food across most of Africa, though the name changes. Nsima in Malawi. Ugali in Tanzania. Other names in other places. It’s a doughy patty made from fine, processed corn flour mixed with water. You eat it with your hands – roll into a ball with your fist, push a little dip in with your thumb then scoop up your beans. I know it doesn’t sound great, but it’s really not too bad and many volunteers end up enjoying it. I, personally, prefer kondowole, which is nsima made from cassava.

The zucchini and cucumbers from my garden didn’t turn out very well, but I am getting a few tomatoes, and I had some sunflowers pop up. I’m planning to plant green beans and perhaps sweet corn when I return to site.

Guns, gangs, etc. – No. The only people I’ve seen carrying guns are police and military personnel. I’ve never seen them use them or point them. No gangs, no kids with guns. It happens at times in other parts of Africa. Actually, because of the relatively peaceful nature of its people, Malawi is known as “The Warm Heart of Africa.” And I have it called “Africa for beginners.” I’ve never felt in any serious danger at all, and I don’t expect I will, but you never know. The most risk I assume is that something might be stolen from my house by a greedy Malawian.

Sports/Games – Football rules! Actually soccer rules, but you never hear that word here. As it is in most countries outside of the United States, soccer is called football and football as we know it in America doesn’t exist.

The most popular non-sport game is called bau or bao, I’m not sure. It rhymes with cow. Have you played mancala? It’s almost the same. You move pieces around a board with the goal being to take your opponents pieces. Difficult to explain in text, look it up!

Travel – Around the village I walk or use my Peace Corps-issued bicycle. If I’m going to Mzuzu or farther, I ride my bike the 25km to Karonga boma, then hitchhike. Believe it or not, it’s actually considered by many people to be the safest way to travel. I would never do it in America, but Africa is different. It’s especially nice if I can get a ride with an American or at least another mzungu. And, no, no vehicle I’ve ridden has ever been shot at.

Cool cars – I noticed you had the photograph of the old Mustang on your board. I was amazed to see that in Malawi. The vast majority of vehicles are Toyotas, mostly pickups, and SUV-type vehicle. I wouldn’t really say I’ve seen anything particularly cool. Most tend to be old, beat-up and blowing black smoke.

Where do I sleep – In my bed. Yes, I have a bed and a mattress. It’s a foam mattress about four inches thick with no box springs underneath, but it’s better than a cement floor. Or grass. I also use a mosquito net. As volunteers we are required to take drugs to avoid getting malaria and the mosquito keeps the nasty little bugs away so we can sleep.

Jobs/Living – The vast majority of people are subsistence farmers. That means they grow their own food either for eating or for sale. Teachers and government workers do earn a salary, but most of them farm some also. In the village we don’t really need stores because most things people can buy at the weekly market. But in town I can go to restaurants, a small grocery (much smaller than Oney’s in Manito); we even have a small cultural museum. Mzuzu is a bit larger with bigger stores and Lilongwe and Blantyre each have a Shoprite, which is like a Kroger’s or Dominic’s.

Free time – Read books. Chat with people.

Favorite thing – Tough question. Probably the opportunity to travel and see new, amazing places and experience different cultures.

Helped any kids – I’m living at a primary school and interact with kids every day. You’ve heard about my soap-making project. I hope I’m helping at least a few kids.

Is it worth – A question I ask myself often. Is it worth sacrificing comfort and familiarity? Is it worth leaving your family and friends and everything you know? Is it worth missing the holidays? Of course I miss America and my home dearly. I think about family and friends all the time. But I also think about what I would be doing at home.

The opportunity to live in Africa and be paid for it by our government, the chance to travel around this continent, the chance to help people who truly need to be helped – yes, that’s worth it. None of that makes me miss America any less, though. A fellow volunteer recently observed that an experience like this instills a greater appreciation for America while at the same time inspiring a sense of wanderlust.

For all of you – any opportunity you have to travel outside of the United States of America, take it. I backpacked around Europe after I finished college and loved it. Once you travel like that, you are a different person. Get outside of the shell of the U.S.A. Don’t let your only exposure to the outside world be what you see in the movies and on TV.

Lastly, to give you a small taste of what the experience is like, try this: No electricity and no running water for as long as you can. Flashlights and battery-operated electronics are OK. I have an iPod and cell phone I charge with a small solar charger. But no computer, no TV, no microwave, no lights. Take water not from your sink or shower, but from a tap or pump straight out of the ground. Bathe from a bucket. Wash dishes and laundry by hand. Don’t use a flush toilet, find a pit latrine. Cook over firewood, but not hotdogs. Rice and beans. Or if you have a kerosene stove, that’s OK. After two weeks you can go to town for a cold drink and a meal at a restaurant. After a month you can use electricity for two days. But still no microwave.

Try that. See how far you get. All that stuff is the easy part of my job.

Bonus Points for the translation:
Tili tose pa ulendo.
(Hint: Chitumbuka)